Crowing about Croatia
Emer Foley is stunned by the beauty of Dubrovnik and the Dalmation coast.
In recent years I have had so many glowing reports about Dubrovnik and the Dalmatian Coast that last September I finally decided it was time to see if the reality matched up to the claims. Not only did it meet all my expectations – it surpassed them!
I decided on an eight-day, half board – evening meal and breakfast included each day -- package, staying in Dubrovnik for four days and the remainder further along the coast.
The flight from Dublin takes just over three hours and at the airport we were greeted by our tour guide Louise who accompanied our group for the entire trip. After about an hour coach ride from the airport we arrived at the three-star Hotel Tirena. This was a modern hotel in Babin Kuk area, close to the beach and a half hour bus journey from the Old Town. Package trips can often be let down by poor quality hotel food, but as soon as I saw coach loads of Americans – renowned for being hard to satisfy – arriving at the hotel I knew that my reservations were without foundation. The food, served buffet-style, was of a very high standard and included just about anything you could possibly fancy: lots of imaginative salads, hot and cold meats, fish, pasta, and some heavenly desserts.
Nothing can prepare you for the sheer beauty of Dubrovnik which is without doubt one of the most stunning places I have ever visited, and not for nothing is it called ‘the pearl of the Adriatic’. It is steeped in history and virtually unchanged since the 13th century. Limestone walls embrace a heart of terracotta roof tiles and narrow streets paved in marble. It comes as no surprise that it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979 and its set piece is the 2,000 metre long medieval wall which has been perfectly preserved. Our package included a half day guided tour of Dubrovnik. We entered the old town through its city gates guarded by its costumed city guards and on to its principal street called Placa or Stradun. This is the main open-air public space of Dubrovnik, making it the favourite promenade and meeting place, the venue for all great festivities and processions, the main shopping area and the widest most beautiful street which divides the Old City into its northern and southern part. It dates back to the 11th century.
If you can’t resist visiting museums and churches you will be spoilt for choice. Our tour included a visit to the Franciscan Monastery, Museum and Old Pharmacy, the latter founded in 1317 for sick Franciscan friars is one of the oldest pharmacies in Europe and is today a public pharmacy. It may be of interest that Saint Blaise is the patron saint of Dubrovnik and his relics are in the Cathedral. In my free time I visited the Church of Saint Blaise.
There is so much to see that it’s hard to know where to start, but the local tourist board have suggested ten top sites in and around the city which you might wish to follow (which include the Churches and Museums mentioned above). The aforementioned city walls are indeed a ‘must’ to investigate, and encompass no less than five forts and sixteen towers and bastions. There are three entrances to the walls and there is a modest charge of 50 Kunas (€ 7). Also worth a visit is Lovrjenac Fort, situated west of the city. You will also find numerous interesting squares within the city, some with markets, and most with cafes and restaurants where you can watch the world go by. I did not manage all of the sites because along the way I was invariably seduced by a restaurant here, a bakery here and a shop there. It’s worth mentioning at this point that the cost of eating out is extremely reasonable and of a good standard. For the equivalent of €30 you can get an enjoyable meal for two, including wine and coffee. Local wines are very drinkable. Fish is popular and if you visit one of the numerous taverns you are likely to be served smoked hams and cheese or perhaps an octopus salad.
After spending the first two days in and around Dubrovnik – and believe me you will not see half of it in that time – we departed the next morning for a full days boat trip to the Elaphite Islands In all there are 1185 islands off the Dalmation coast and 66 of those islands are uninhabited. The islands are staggeringly picturesque and we enjoyed an al freso meal on board our cruiser.Just three of the Elaphite islands, Koločep, Lopud, and Šipan, are still inhabited, and if you are not on an organized tour as I was, each can easily be reached by the inexpensive local Jadrolinija ferry that runs four times daily (twice on Sundays) throughout the year from Dubrovnik.
All three islands have private accommodation, hotels, and small tourist offices that are open in summer only. Both Koločep and Šipan are, like the Old City of Dubrovnik, car-free.
The most “developed” of the Elaphite islands, although the word hardly seems appropriate, Lopud was likewise once a playground of the Dubrovnik nobility.
It features the finest ruins of the three islands – in particular the remains of the Rector’s Palace (which today are preserved as a verdant park) on the outskirts of its sole town and hill-top Franciscan Monastery, whose remains offer wonderful views over the island and its many ruined churches.
Lopud’s greatest pleasure is to be found in Sunj Bay, on the far side of the island, whose calm waters are popular with boaters and whose pleasantly sloping white-sand beach is popular with both locals and visitors.
One the fifth day it was time to move northwards up the Dalmation coast to Biograd which was almost a six-hour coach journey. We stayed in the four-star Hotel Ilirlja. Once again the accommodation and food was first-class.
Biograd in fact is one of Croatia’s most established tourist resorts and is a favourite with boating enthusiasts as it boasts a number of modern marinas. It is located at the entrance to the famous Kornati Archipelago, which has over 150 islands, clean warm water for swimming, and numerous nature parks and preserves around the city provide plenty of relaxation and diversion.
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Boating is a popular attraction. Tours, excursions, and day trips abound. Yacht rentals are also available. You can choose from packages that include a skipper to pilot the craft. In truth Biograd is not that interesting historically but on the way up we visited Split which is. Split is the second largest city in Croatia, with just over 200,000 inhabitants, and is the largest city on the Adriatic coast, it is certainly worth a visit, however brief. A highlight would be St Dolmus Cathedral with its bell tower and the Diocletian Palace dating back to 295AD which is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979.
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The coast at Zadar
All in all a most enjoyable trip with Dubrovnik being the ‘star’, or the ‘pearl’ if you wish. If you want a change from Spain, Portugal and Italy, something refreshingly different, attractive, laid-back, with the same guaranteed good weather, Croatia is the place for you. Prices are reasonable, and if you are not on an organized tour bus services are good and cheap (However be warned that taxis are on the expensive side). Highly recommended.
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Emer Foley travelled with The Travel Department. The Travel Department is a leading operator of escorted holidays worldwide. Their holidays offer a professionally planned itinerary, the expert knowledge of a local guide and the convenience of booking an "all-in" package. Operating to over 40 countries around the world, The Travel Department offer a wide and varied range of holiday destinations and types. The company offer 150 destinations worldwide ranging from leading European locations including France, Italy and Spain, to long haul destinations in Asia, Africa, Australasia and The Americas. The Travel Department’s holiday types range from popular sightseeing and cultural holidays and weekend breaks through to motor sports, garden, wine, single-friendly, cruise holidays and activity breaks. Full details of this Croatia trip and other holidays are available on www.thetraveldepartment.ie or by calling 01 637 1600. |
